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8 Tips for Adding Curb Appeal and Value to Your Home
Article
From HouseLogic.com
By:
Pat Curry
Published: March 25, 2010
Appraisers and real estate agents
offer advice for curb appeal that preserves value and attracts potential
buyers.
Curb
appeal has always been important for homesellers. With the vast majority of
today's homebuyers starting their search on the Internet, the appearance of
your property is more critical than ever. You only have a few seconds to catch
their attention as they scroll through listings online to get them to stop and
take a closer look.
But the role of curb appeal goes beyond just making a good first impression.
The way your house looks from the street can impact its value. It can also
shorten the time it takes to sell your house.
We
asked real estate agents, appraisers, home stagers, landscape designers, and
home inspectors which curb appeal projects offer the most value when your house
is on the market, both in terms of its marketability and dollars. Here is what
they told us:
1.
Paint the house.
Hands
down, the most commonly offered curb appeal advice from our real estate pros
and appraisers is to give the exterior of your home a good paint job
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/exterior-paints-and-stains-guide-options/).
Buyers will instantly notice it and appraisers will note it on the valuation.
"Paint is probably the number one thing inside and out," says Frank
Lucco, managing partner of Houston-based IRR-Residential Appraisers and
Consultants. "I'd give additional value for that. If you're under two
years remaining life (on the paint job), paint the exterior because it tends to
show wear badly."
Just make sure you stay within the range of accepted colors for your market. A
house that's painted a wildly different color from its competition will be
marked down in value by appraisers.
2.
Have the house washed.
Before
you make the investment in a paint job, though, take a good look at the house.
If it's got mildew or general grunge, just washing the house (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/clean-and-care-siding/)
could make a world of difference, says Valerie Torelli, a California real
estate agent with a background in accounting.
Before she puts a house on the market, Torelli often does exterior makeovers on
her clients' homes, a service she pays for herself to get higher selling
prices. Overall, she says her goal is to spend less than $5,000, with a goal of
generating an extra $10,000 to $15,000 on the sale price.
Torelli specifies pressure-washing-a job that should be left to professionals.
Pressure washing makes the house look "bright and clean in addition to
getting rid of unsightly things like cobwebs, which may not be seen from the
yard but will detract from the home's cleanliness when seen up close," she
says.
The cost to have a professional cleaning should be a few hundred dollars--a
fraction of the cost of having the house painted.
3.
Trim the shrubs and green up the yard.
California
real estate agent Valerie Torelli says she puts a lot of emphasis on
landscaping, such as cutting down overgrown bushes and replacing them with
leafy plants and annuals mulched with beautiful reddish-brown bark. "It
runs me $30 to $50," says Torelli. "Do you get a return on your
money? Absolutely. It sucks people in."
You also don't want bare spots. Take the time to fertilize the yard
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/lawn-maintenance-calendar/), throw out some
grass seed, and if need be, add some sod.
4.
Add a splash of color.
It
could be a flower bed of annuals by the mailbox, a paint job for the front
door, or a brightly colored bench or an Adirondack chair. "You can get a
cute little bench at Home Depot for $99," Torelli notes. "Spray paint
it bright red or blue and set it in the yard or on the front porch."
It's not a bad idea, but don't plan on getting extra points from an appraiser
for a red bench, says John Bredemeyer, president of Realcorp in Omaha.
"It's difficult to quantify, but it does make a home sell more
quickly," Bredemeyer says. "Maybe yours sold a couple weeks faster
than the house down the street. That's the best way to look at these
things."
5.
Add a fancy mailbox and house numbers.
An
upscale mail box and architectural house numbers or an address plaque can give
your house a distinctive look that stands out from everyone else on the block.
Torelli makes them a part of her exterior makeovers "I've gotten those
hand-painted mailboxes," she says. "A nice one runs you $40 to
$50." Architectural house numbers may run as high as a few hundred
dollars.
6.
Repair or clean the roof.
Springfield,
Va.-based home inspector and former builder Reggie Marston says the roof
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/roofing-repair-or-replace/) is one of the
first things he looks at in assessing the condition of a home. He'll look at
other houses in the neighborhood to see if there are a lot of replaced roofs
and see if the subject house has one as well. If not, he'll look for curls in
the shingles or missing shingles. "I'm looking at the roof for end-of-life
expectancy," he says.
You can pay for roof repairs now, or pay for them later in a lower appraisal;
appraisers will mark down the value by the cost of the repair. That could knock
thousands of dollars off your appraisal. According to Remodeling Magazine's
2009-2010 Cost vs. Value Report
(http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/national.aspx), the average cost
of a new asphalt shingle roof is more than $19,000.
"Roofs are issues," Lucco says. "You won't throw money away on
that job. You gotta have a decent roof."
Stains and plant matter, such as moss, can be handled with cleaning. It's a job
that can often be done in a day for a few hundred dollars, and makes the roof
look like new. It's not a DIY project; call a professional with the right tools
to clean it without damaging it.
7.
Put up a fence.
A
picket fence with a garden gate to frame the yard is an asset. A fence
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/fencing-guide-options/) has more impact in
a family-oriented neighborhood than an upscale retirement community, Bredemeyer
says, but in most instances, appraisers will give extra value for one, as long
as it's in good condition. "Day in a day out, a fence is a plus,"
Bredemeyer says. Expect to pay $2,000 to $3,500 for a professionally installed
gated picket fence 3 feet high and 100 feet long.
8.
Perform routine maintenance and cleaning.
Nothing
sets off subconscious alarms like hanging gutters
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/fast-fixes-common-gutter-problems/),
missing bricks from the front steps, or lawn tools rusting in the bushes. It
makes even the professionals question what else hasn't been taken care of.
"A house is worth less if the maintenance isn't done," Lucco says.
"Those little things can add up and be a very big detractor. When people
say, 'I'd buy it if it weren't for all the deferred maintenance
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/value-home-maintenance/),' what they're
really saying is, 'I'd still buy it if you reduce the price.'"
Georgia-based freelance writer Pat Curry has covered housing and real estate
for consumer and trade publications for more than a decade, including covering
new home sales and marketing for BUILDER, the magazine of the National
Association of Home Builders.
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Fielding a Lowball Purchase Offer on Your HomeArticle From BuyAndSell.HouseLogic.com
By: Marcie Geffner
Published: June 10, 2010
Consider before you ignore or outrightrefuse a very low purchase offer for your home. A counteroffer and negotiationcould turn that low purchase offer into a sale.
You just received a purchase offer fromsomeone who wants to buy your home. You're excited and relieved, until yourealize the purchase offer is much lower than your asking price. How should yourespond? Set aside your emotions, focus on the facts, and prepare acounteroffer that keeps the buyers involved in the deal. Check your emotionsA purchase offer, even a very low one,means someone wants to purchase your home. Unless the offer is laughably low,it deserves a cordial response, whether that's a counteroffer or an outrightrejection. Remain calm and discuss with your real estate agent the many waysyou can respond to a lowball purchase offer. Counter the purchase offerUnless you've received multiple purchaseoffers, the best response is to counter the low offer with a price and termsyou're willing to accept. Some buyers make a low offer because they thinkthat's customary, they're afraid they'll overpay, or they want to test yourlimits.
A counteroffer signals that you're willing to negotiate. One strategy for yourcounteroffer is to lower your price, but remove any concessions such as sellerassistance with closing costs, or features such as kitchen appliances thatyou'd like to take with you. Consider the termsPrice is paramount for most buyers and sellers,but it's not the only deal point. A low purchase offer might make sense if thecontingencies are reasonable, the closing date meets your needs, and the buyeris preapproved for a mortgage. Consider what terms you might change in acounteroffer to make the deal work. Review your compsAsk your REALTOR® whether any homesthat are comparable to yours (known as "comps") have been sold or puton the market since your home was listed for sale. If those new comps are atlower prices, you might have to lower your price to match them if you want tosell. Consider the buyer's compsBuyers sometimes attach comps to a lowoffer to try to convince the seller to accept a lower purchase offer. Take alook at those comps. Are the homes similar to yours? If so, your asking pricemight be unrealistic. If not, you might want to include in your counterofferinformation about those homes and your own comps that justify your askingprice.
If the buyers don't include comps to justify their low purchase offer, have yourreal estate agent ask the buyers' agent for those comps. Get the agents togetherIf the purchase offer is too low tocounter, but you don't have a better option, ask your real estate agent to callthe buyer's agent and try to narrow the price gap so that a counteroffer wouldmake sense. Also, ask your real estate agent whether the buyer (or buyer'sagent) has a reputation for lowball purchase offers. If that's the case, youmight feel freer to reject the offer. Don't signal desperationBuyers are sensitive to signs that a sellermay be receptive to a low purchase offer. If your home is vacant or your home'slisting describes you as a "motivated" seller, you're signalingyou're open to a low offer.
If you can remedy the situation, maybe by renting furniture or asking youragent not to mention in your home listing that you're motivated, the nextpurchase offer you get might be more to your liking. More from HouseLogic6 Tips for Choosing the Best Purchase Offerfor Your Home (http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/6-tips-choosing-best-offer-your-home/)
6 Reasons to Reduce Your Home Price(http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/6-Reasons-To-Reduce-Your-Home-Price/)
Marcie Geffner is a freelance reporter who has been writing about real estate,homeownership and mortgages for 20 years. She owns a ranch-style house built in1941 and updated in the 1990s, in Los Angeles.
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6 Reasons to Reduce Your Home PriceArticle From BuyAndSell.HouseLogic.com
By: G. M. Filisko
Published: March 19, 2010
While you'd like to get the best price foryour home, consider our six reasons to reduce your home price.
Home not selling? That could happen for anumber of reasons you can't control, like a unique home layout or having one ofthe few homes in the neighborhood without a garage. There is one factor you cancontrol: your home price. These six signs may be telling you it'stime to lower your price. 1. You're drawing few lookersYou get the most interest in your homeright after you put it on the market because buyers want to catch a great newhome before anybody else takes it. If your real estate agent reports there havebeen fewer buyers calling about and asking to tour your home than there havebeen for other homes in your area, that may be a sign buyers think it'soverpriced and are waiting for the price to fall before viewing it. 2. You're drawing lots of lookers but have no offersIf you've had 30 sets of potential buyerscome through your home and not a single one has made an offer, something isoff. What are other agents telling your agent about your home? An overly highprice may be discouraging buyers from making an offer. 3. Your home's been on the market longer than similarhomesAsk your real estate agent about theaverage number of days it takes to sell a home in your market. If the answer is30 and you're pushing 45, your price may be affecting buyer interest. When ahome sits on the market, buyers can begin to wonder if there's something wrongwith it, which can delay a sale even further. At least consider lowering yourasking price. 4. You have a deadlineIf you've got to sell soon because of a jobtransfer or you've already purchased another home, it may be necessary togenerate buyer interest by dropping your price so your home is a little lowerpriced than comparable homes in your area. Remember: It's not how much moneyyou need that determines the sale price of your home, it's how much money abuyer is willing to spend. 5. You can't make upgradesMaybe you're plum out of cash and don'thave the funds to put fresh paint on the walls, clean the carpets, and add curbappeal. But the feedback your agent is reporting from buyers is that your homeisn't as well-appointed as similarly priced homes. When your home has been onthe market longer than comparable homes in better condition, it's time toaccept that buyers expect to pay less for a home that doesn't show as well asothers. 6. The competition has changedIf weeks go by with no offers, continue tocheck out the competition. What have comparable homes sold for and what's stillon the market? What new listings have been added since you listed your home forsale? If comparable home sales or new listings show your price is too steep,consider a price reduction. More from HouseLogicHow to ready your home for sale at littlecost (http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/5-tips-prepare-your-home-sale/)
How to review offers on your home(http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/6-tips-choosing-best-offer-your-home/) Other web resourcesSetting the right price
More on setting the right price (http://public.findlaw.com/abaflg/flg-4-4a-1.html)
G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who made strategic pricereductions that led to the sale of a Wisconsin property. A frequent contributorto many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR®Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in realestate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.
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NewLocation, New Name! BozemanMontana Real Estate 2149Durston Suite 33 BozemanMT 59718 Don'thesitate to contact us about your "home" questions! We offer FREEComparative Market Analysis. Whether you are selling your home yourselfor with us!
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Save
Money By Growing Fruit Trees
Article
From HouseLogic.com
By:
Veronica Lorson Fowler
Published: March 17, 2010
Money
really can grow on trees! Cut your grocery bill while improving your landscape
by planting and growing a fruit tree.
Investing in a fruit tree is a
win-win-win-win proposition. You'll save money on your grocery bill; you'll
improve the health of your family by assuring an ample supply of healthy
produce (which you can grow organically if you want); you'll enhance your
landscape with a pretty spring-flowering tree; and you'll have the satisfaction
of growing your own food. As a bonus, the whole family will learn a delicious lesson
about nature and gardening.
"With fruit trees, the return you
get on your input is quite a bit," says Ron Perry, a Michigan State
University professor of horticulture who specializes in fruit trees.
Your investment is minimal; figure $20 to $30 for a young tree and perhaps an
hour to plant it. From that point, you'll also need patience. Most fruit trees
take three years to start bearing, and up to five years to bear fully.
There are basically three types of trees. Full-sized fruit trees grow to be 30
feet tall and produce an overwhelming amount of fruit at maturity. For home
gardens, semi-dwarf and dwarf trees are a better choice and are easier to
harvest. Plan on harvesting in late summer through fall.
Semi-dwarf trees grow 12 to 15 feet tall and will produce hundreds of fruits.
Dwarf trees grow 8 to 10 feet tall and produce perhaps a bushel or so of fruit,
depending on the type and year.
How
much will you save?
How much money you'll save by planting a
fruit tree varies, depending on what you plant, the size of the tree, and your
food buying and eating habits. Note that fruit trees tend to produce more
heavily every other year.
On average, a single semi-dwarf apple tree may produce 40 or more pounds of
fruit each year. With prices of apples ranging from 60 cents to $3.50 per
pound, your tree might easily produce $80 worth of fruit. That reduces the
annual amount a family of four spends on produce by 5% to 10%.
Plan on refrigerating some produce to keep it weeks longer.
You'll see even more savings by freezing, canning, making preserves, or drying
fruit (http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/) (a dehydrator costs about $60). This can
shave another few dollars a week off your grocery bill and provide you with
plenty of nutritious food to eat all year long.
Picking
the right tree for your region
Choose fruit trees that are easy to grow
in your region and which you and your family will be happy to eat.
Apples, pears, cherries and plums are among the best choices for home gardens,
says Perry, because as long as you choose disease-resistant types, they require
little spraying or fuss that commercial growers lavish on their trees to assure
the biggest, most perfect, store ready fruits.
You can find a disease-resistant variety of fruit tree that will do well in
your area by contacting your government-funded local cooperative extension
service (http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/). Or, find out even faster by Googling the following four words together:
"Recommended," the type of fruit (such as "apple"),
"trees," and the name of your state, such as "Illinois."
Some fruit trees need a second tree for cross-pollination by bees in order to
produce fruit. Check the plant label or catalog
description to be sure.
Here are some tips for growing the best fruit trees for home gardens:
Apples: Most varieties need a second tree for cross-pollination.
Disease-resistant varieties are Freedom and Liberty. Increase savings by making
apple butter, applesauce, and drying. Apple trees do well in Zones 3 through 9
(http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).
Pears: These often need a second tree for cross-pollination. Delicious,
Harrow Delight, and Moonglow are particularly
resistant to disease. Increase savings by canning and making pear butter. Pear
trees do well in Zones 4 through 9
(http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).
Cherries: Sour cherries do not need a cross-pollinator tree nearby. They
are excellent for pies and baking, and all sour cherry trees are highly disease- and pest-resistant. Sour cherries do well in Zones
4 through 8 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).
Most sweet cherries need a cross-pollinating tree. They're excellent for eating
fresh. Freeze extra cherries for even more savings. They do well in Zones 5
through 8 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).
Plums: Japanese and American plums always need a cross-pollinator;
European types usually do. European types, such as Damson, are the most
disease- and pest-resistant. Make plum jam or dry plums for even more savings.
Plum trees do well in Zones 4 through 9
(http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).
Peaches: Most peaches do not need a cross-pollinator. You need to be
diligent about spraying if you want large, blemish-free fruits. Can peaches,
make jam, or freeze peaches for more savings. Peach trees do well in Zones 6
through 9 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).
Growing
fruit trees
The main requirement for a fruit tree is
full sun-at least 8 hours of direct, unfiltered light a day.
Space is also important. Allow as much space between trees and other plantings
as the tree will be at mature height. Space full-size fruit trees 30 feet
apart; plan 15 feet between semi-dwarf trees and 10 feet between dwarf trees.
Plant fruit tree saplings in spring. Planting is easy--simply dig a hole about
12 inches deeper and wider than the root ball of the tree. Work in a shovelful
or two of compost, then set the tree in the hole and
backfill. Keep well watered for the first few weeks.
Saplings come from the nursery with their roots in containers. Plant the tree
so that the trunk is at the same depth it was in the container. If the tree is
bare-root, that is, sold in a bag with its roots exposed,
plant it so the knobby bud union that joins the trunk with the roots is 1 to 2
inches above soil level.
Prune your fruit trees as directed by the planting instructions that come with
the tree. Each spring, minimize disease problems by
spraying with an organic horticultural oil (a $10 bottle will last you a few
years) diluted in a $25 pump sprayer.
Veronica Lorson Fowler grew up on a farm and has
gardened since she was a child. A garden writer for more than 20 years, she has
written and edited numerous garden books, and has written hundreds of garden
articles for web sites and national magazines. She tends her own highly varied
garden, which includes several fruit trees, in Ames, Iowa.
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7 Gardening Mistakes to Avoid
Article From
HouseLogic.com
By: Oliver Marks
Published: March 15, 2010
Novice gardeners
can get their landscapes off to a healthy start by heeding some tried-and-true
tips from the pros.
Gardening
is just about the simplest do-it-yourself home improvement work there is. If
you can dig a hole, turn on a spigot, and snip a dead flower off a vine, you've
got the basic skills down. Still, you do have to make some judgment calls, so
it helps to know the ground rules, so to speak, that can help you avoid making
some rookie mistakes.
Mistake #1: Making changes too
soon
Take
the excitement of buying a home, add a nice stretch of spring weather, and you
get a lot of enthusiasm for doing yard work. That's great; seize the day, but
don't jump into wholesale landscape changes, like pulling out plants or
reorganizing the layout quite yet.
"That weed that you want to yank out in the spring might turn out to be a
gorgeous fall-blooming vine," says Gary Blondell,
owner of Gary's Gardens, a nursery in Severna Park, Md. Plus, it takes time to
learn the landscape and figure out exactly what changes make sense.
Avoid this by: Living with the landscape for a full year, so you can
observe it in all seasons.
Mistake #2: Planting too close
together
You
buy a wheelbarrow full of young shrubs and perennials and plant them in a
pleasing arrangement. But if they look properly spaced now, they're actually
way too close together.
Unless you're creating an evergreen hedge, when the idea is packing things
tightly together, the immature plantings will grow into each other in a few
years and struggle to compete for sun, water, and soil nutrients. You'll either
have to dig them up and transplant them-or possibly throw them away.
Avoid this by: Following the spacing requirements on the plant
label-even though the results will look absurdly sparse at first.
Mistake #3: Planting without a
plan
Putting
in new garden beds without a long-term landscape plan is like tiling, painting,
and wallpapering your house before you figure out your future remodeling plans: There's a good chance you'll have to undo
your efforts in the near future.
Avoid this by: Drawing a simple, bird's eye view sketch of your yard,
and figuring out the rough location of any future construction-additions,
patios, outbuildings, pools-so you can plant around them.
A good local nursery or home improvement store can help you with your design.
Or you can hire a landscape designer to create a starter plan for as little as
$250 to $500. Find a professional at the Association of Professional Landscape
Designers (http://www.apld.com) or the American Society of Landscape Architects
(http://www.asla.org).
Mistake #4: Neglecting the root
ball
Even
the hardiest plants need a little help getting their roots established in their
new locations. But just turning on the sprinkler every day to douse the foliage
isn't enough to ensure that they get the nutrients and hydration they need. You
have to get the water to a plant's nerve center--the
root ball below ground--or it's going to be stunted or short-lived.
Avoid this by: Placing the hose near the root ball and setting the water
to a trickle for about 20 to 30 minutes. Do this twice a week-more during hot,
dry spells-for the first four to 12 weeks. Choosing the right irrigation system
can help with this task while saving water
(http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/).
Mistake #5: Ignoring your yard's
sun conditions
Too
many nursery shoppers pick plants based only on looks-not the growing
conditions they need, which are almost always indicated on a label wrapped
around the trunk or a marker pressed into the soil. "They put a sun-loving
perennial under a dense tree or something that wants partial shade out in
full-day sunshine," says Blondell. "It
looks great for about a week, and then it begins to die."
Avoid this by: Watching the spot where you're going to put the plant and
estimating the amount of sun it gets over the course of the day during the
growing season. To translate that to the language on plant labels, use this
key:
Full Sun 6 hours a day or more Part Sun/Part
Shade 3 to 5 hours Shade Less than 3 hours
Mistake #6: Misusing irrigation systems
An
automatic irrigation system is a luxury that allows you to keep your landscape
hydrated throughout the growing season with almost no effort. Unfortunately,
with the wrong settings, it can also bring disease, root rot, and an untimely
death to the plants in your landscape.
"People tend to set their systems to come on for 15 or 20 minutes each
morning," says Blondell. "That provides a
nice saturation of the surface, but not a deep penetrating soak to reach the roots
of large shrubs and trees." And a deeper soak is better for the lawn, too,
because it promotes deep root systems.
Avoid this by: Watering for longer intervals-say, 40 to 60 minutes-only
two to three times a week. Check with the company that maintains your
irrigation system for local recommendations.
Mistake #7: Not budgeting for
landscaping during construction projects
Whether
you're building a house or an addition, the bulldozers that excavate the job
and the pickups that park on the lawn will damage the grass, trees, and shrubs.
And the new building configuration will call for new landscape plantings.
Unfortunately, homeowners don't often include money in their budgets for this
work. So you wind up with a beautiful new family room, screened porch, or
solarium, with a few azaleas thrown in around the foundation as an
afterthought.
Avoid this by: Allocating 10 to 20 percent of your construction budget
to the landscape-both hardscaping and plants-or at
least making plans to spend that money as soon as possible after the
construction job is complete.
A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about
home improvements for 16 years. He's entering his second summer at his house
and has big plans for upgrading its scraggly foundation plantings.
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A healthy, well-maintained lawn is more than just good-looking—it’s a key to
preserving the value of your home. Regular lawn maintenance enhances curb
appeal, making your home—and neighborhood—attractive to passersby and potential
buyers.
According to Su Chi Straka-Phillis, a residential real estate appraiser with
Central Appraisal Services of Parma, Ohio, a well-kept lawn preserves a home’s
value.
Put off routine maintenance, and you risk devaluing your home. In fact, an
unkempt lawn can be a warning sign to buyers of other potential home maintenance
issues, explains Cecilia Sherrard, a real estate agent in Rocky River, Ohio.
“The outside of the home is the first thing people see, and if it’s not properly
maintained, many will not be interested in scheduling a showing to see the
inside.”
Know your grass type
There are two main types of lawn grass:
cool-season and warm-season. Homeowners living in the Northeast, Midwest, and
Northwest should grow cool-season grasses. As depicted on the Plant
Heat-Zone Map provided by the American Horticultural Society, the regions
for cool-season grasses are approximately zones 1 through 7.
Cool-season
grasses do most of their growing in spring and fall, often going dormant in the
summer. Cool-season grasses include bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine
grass.
Those living in the Southeast and Southwest (zones 8 through 12)
will generally have warm-season grasses. Warm-season grasses thrive from late
spring to early fall and go dormant in the winter. Varieties include tall
fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.
If you’re unsure
which zone applies to you, check your state extension
service.
Mowing
Grass type:
All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall
“The taller
the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the
soil holds between watering,” explains Richard Hentschel of the University of Illinois Extension. Hentschel recommends the
mower blade height be permanently set to 3 inches.
In prime growing
season (spring and fall for cool-season; summer for warm), homeowners should mow
frequently enough so they’re removing no more than one-third of the grass blade.
If possible, resist the urge to mow the grass when wet, as the practice can
spread diseases that affect lawns.
Mower blades should be sharpened
monthly to ensure clean, sharp cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving
jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens. Consider spending
about $20 for a backup blade so that a sharp one is always on hand.
Watering
Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule:
Spring to fall
Deep and infrequent watering is better for lawns than
frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth, says Hentschel. In
general, lawns need about one inch of water per week to maintain green color and
active growth.
Lawns that receive less than that will likely go into
dormancy. To stay alive, dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of
water per month.
To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie
tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of
time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water
the lawn receives naturally. Allowing a cool-season lawn to go dormant in the
summer can save hundreds of gallons of water, depending on the size of your
lawn.
Feeding
Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance
schedule: Early fall
Grass type:
Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late spring
“It
used to be common to fertilize a lawn three or four times per year,” says
Hentschel. “Now we suggest just once a year when it will do the most good.” For
cool-season grasses, that time is early fall, so the grass enters winter
dormancy in a much healthier state.
For warm-season grasses, the best
time to fertilize is late spring, just as the grass begins its most active
growth. For best results, closely follow the application directions on the
product. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.
People interested in
organic fertilizers have never had an easier time finding them at local garden
centers. Homeowners who mow regularly with mulching mowers are encouraged to
leave the clippings on the ground, where they’ll decompose and recycle nutrients
into the soil.
Weed-control herbicide application
Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance
schedule: Fall
Grass type:
Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late
winter
Homeowners should embrace the idea that an occasional weed is OK,
says Hentschel. For minor weed invasions, removal by hand of the entire plant
and roots is recommended. When the situation becomes impossible to contain by
hand, it might be necessary to apply an herbicide.
For cool-season
grasses, the best time to apply a weed killer is in fall, when both old and new
weeds can be eliminated before winter. Warm-season grasses often benefit from a
late-winter application of a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weeds from
growing.
In place of weed and feed products, which are spread over the
entire lawn, Hentschel prefers liquid-based herbicides that are applied only
where needed. It’s imperative to read and follow all directions on herbicide
labels. Cost is around $15 to $45 per application.
Grub control
Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance
schedule: Early summer
Grass type:
Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late summer
Grub
worms, the larval stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, feed on the tender
root systems of lawns. Affected lawns exhibit browning and wilting
patches.
To be certain that the culprits are grubs, Hentschel suggests
that homeowners pull back the sod and look for white, C-shaped grubs. If they’re
present at a rate exceeding 10 per square foot, they should be treated with a
chemical pesticide.
Milky spore is an environmentally friendly way to
control some species of grubs. When using insecticides, read and follow all
label directions and water the product into the soil immediately. Cost is around
$50 to $75 per application.
Patching
Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance
schedule: Early fall
Grass type:
Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Early summer
The
best time to patch bare or thin spots in a lawn is at the start of the grass’s
most favorable growing period. For cool-season grasses that means waiting until
the hot, dry days of summer have given way to cooler fall temps.
Warm-season grasses thrive in summer, so it’s best to sow seeds at the
start of that season. Hentschel says to buy only high quality disease-resistant
seed with good germination rates, which by law have to be listed on the label.
Cost is anywhere from $20 to $75, depending on the size of the areas to be
patched.
Cleanup
Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule:
Spring to fall
Although small particles of grass are fine to leave on the
lawn, large piles that exit a side-discharge mower should be removed. Fallen
leaves, twigs, and debris should be raked up regularly. In climates where it
snows, it’s best to remove fall leaves before winter. A thick layer of wet
leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring.
Download our free PDF worksheet for an easy-to-use seasonal
maintenance task chart.
Douglas Trattner has covered home maintenance
and improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain
Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he’s upgraded the
furnace, added insulation, replaced most appliances, and mowed his lawn every
time but once.
© Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS® http://www.houselogic.com/articles/lawn-maintenance-calendar/
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For Sale by Owner Tips 1.) Detach Yourself Emotionally From Your Home. a. Step back and ask for friend’s advice to help you open your eyes to things that can be fixed. This is not a time to take things personally but to regroup and make necessary changes to make your home sale successful.
2.) Spice up Curb Appeal a. Before you place your home on the market make sure your home is in top shape. In a competitive buyers market first impressions are everything! If you leave chipped paint, old musty carpets, broken windows, or a withering front yard you may lose buyers or even reduce your potential purchase price.
3.) Set a Realistic Price a. Many buyers price their home based upon personal opinions and not what the current market value is. If you start off wrong and let your home sit on the market buyers will take note and use that against you when you receive a buy/sell.
1. Some real estate professionals will prepare a “Competitive Market Analysis” or CMA for free. b. At this time you should determine if you are willing to work with realtors who want to show your home to clients. If you choose not to you could potentially loose many valuable buyers.
4.) Get Your Home Noticed a. Create a webpage for your home with websites like Postlets.
1. Take pictures! If you don’t you will lose more potential buyers than you can fathom.
b. Visit local real estate offices with flyers that include your homes web address.
5.) Showings a. When you finally get that showing that you have been working so hard for make sure your home is in top shape.
1. Clean off the counters, if you have countless pictures that cover the walls get rid of them (except a few).
b. Detach yourself.
c. Don’t crowed the potential buyers.
6.) Offers a. If you get one soon don’t be greedy. Take that step back that we have been ramming into your brain. How badly do you want to move? Would you be willing to stay in your home for another six months to a year?
b. Take some time to think it over you can make negotiations just be realistic.
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5 Tips to Prepare Your Home for Sale Many buyers today want move-in-ready homes and will quickly
eliminate an otherwise great home by focusing on a few visible flaws.
Unless your home shines, you may endure showing after showing and open
house after open house—and end up with a lower sales price. Before the
first prospect walks through your door, consider some smart options for
casting your home in its best light.
1. Have a home inspection
Be proactive by arranging for a pre-sale home inspection. For $250
to $400, an inspector will warn you about troubles that could make
potential buyers balk. Make repairs before putting your home on the
market. In some states, you may have to disclose what the inspection
turns up.
2. Get replacement estimates
If your home inspection uncovers necessary repairs you can’t fund,
get estimates for the work. The figures will help buyers determine if
they can afford the home and the repairs. Also hunt down warranties,
guarantees, and user manuals for your furnace, washer and dryer,
dishwasher, and any other items you expect to remain with the house.
3. Make minor repairs
Not every repair costs a bundle. Fix as many small problems—sticky
doors, torn screens, cracked caulking, dripping faucets—as you can.
These may seem trivial, but they’ll give buyers the impression your
house isn’t well maintained.
4. Clear the clutter
Clear your kitchen counters of just about everything. Clean your
closets by packing up little-used items like out-of-season clothes and
old toys. Install closet organizers to maximize space. Put at least
one-third of your furniture in storage, especially large pieces, such
as entertainment centers and big televisions. Pack up family photos,
knickknacks, and wall hangings to depersonalize your home. Store the
items you’ve packed offsite or in boxes neatly arranged in your garage
or basement.
5. Do a thorough cleaning
A clean house makes a strong first impression that your home has
been well cared for. If you can afford it, consider hiring a cleaning
service.
If not, wash windows and leave them open to air out your rooms.
Clean carpeting and drapes to eliminate cooking odors, smoke, and pet
smells. Wash light fixtures and baseboards, mop and wax floors, and
give your stove and refrigerator a thorough once-over.
Pay attention to details, too. Wash fingerprints from light switch
plates, clean inside the cabinets, and polish doorknobs. Don’t forget
to clean your garage, too. © Copyright 2010 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS® http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/5-tips-prepare-your-home-sale/
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I have had a great experience with this contractor. He has done work on my
house and several clients. He is very detail oriented.
Contact Info:
Fantasy Decks and Custom Interiors
406-579-9404
It is very important for you to do your own research and
interviewing when selecting someone to work on one of your largest asset's.
While I have had a wonderful experience I expect everyone to always use due
diligence.
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Many underwater homeowners-those who owe more on their home than it is currently
worth-feel stuck. They can't sell without taking a major loss, and they often
can't refinance because the
appraiser's report doesn't past muster. If they want to take advantage of some
mortgage modification programs, they're often told they need to be behind in
their mortgage first. But what if they are current on their mortgage?
Well, the government has a new plan for these homeowners. Under a new
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development (HUD) program, homeowners who are current on their loans can
reduce their hefty loan-to-value mortgage debt by 10 percent, if they qualify
and if their lender approves. This is big news, especially for homeowners in the
five hardest-hit states--Nevada, Arizona, Florida, Michigan and California-where
between 35 percent and 70 percent of existing homes have underwater
mortgages. "Negative equity is a significant drag on both the housing
market and on economic growth," said Mark Fleming, chief economist with First American CoreLogic. "It is driving
foreclosures
and decreasing mobility for millions of homeowners." Negative equity and
near-negative equity mortgages account for nearly 29 percent of all U.S.
residential properties with a mortgage. First American CoreLogic reported
in February that more than 11.3 million of residential mortgages held negative
equity in their homes at the end of 2009, up from 10.7 million in third quarter.
An additional 2.3 million homes were approaching near-negative equity. "Once
negative equity exceeds 25 percent, or the mortgage balance is $70,000 higher
than the current property values, owners begin to default," according to the
CoreLogic report. As many as 4 million homeowners could get help by 2012
from expanded FHA programs, with the federal government funding the program for
up to $50 billion through the Troubled Asset
Relief Program or TARP. But Jay Dacey, a mortgage planner in
Plymouth, Minn., cautions homeowners before they jump into these
government-initiated programs. "The programs the government has tried to instill
to date have completely failed," he says. "I believe if you do one of these it
might adversely affect your credit because it will show
that you settled for less. I would tell the consumer to make sure they
understand the credit consequences in
advance." So do your homework, he cautions. Here is what's on the table with HUD's latest program:
* The
total mortgage amount for the borrower after refinancing cannot be
greater than 115 percent of the current value of the home. After all, the goal
is to lower a mortgage to be closer to today's actual value.
* The homeowner
must occupy the home as their primary residence.
* The homeowners must
qualify for a new FHA loan under standard FHA borrower guidelines.
* The
homeowners must have a FICO credit score of at
least 500-which is a lower than getting a traditional mortgage.
* The
existing loan cannot be FHA-insured. That's because FHA guidelines doesn't allow
its own loans to be reduced.
* The lender must agree to write down the
principal loan balance a minimum of 10 percent and the final loan amount cannot
exceed 115 percent of the current value of the home (including any second
mortgages).
* The refinanced FHA loan cannot be greater than 97.75 percent of
the value of the home. This means if you may have to bring money to the closing
table to lower it further. If you don't have cash on hand, you can get the
second loan to cover the difference.
This is relief for those who might
not otherwise be approved by the Home Affordable Modification
Program (HAMP). Under HAMP, more than 1.4 million homeowners received offers
for trial modifications and more than 1.1 million borrowers were receiving a
median savings of $500 each month as of the end of April. Permanent
modifications have been granted to more than 230,000 homeowners, and an
additional 108,000 permanent modifications have been approved by servicers and
are pending borrower acceptance. But still that is not enough, given the
CoreLogic numbers.
"Housing is a long-term investment, and homeowners
should just focus on making the next payment," says mortgage planner Dacey.
"Don't worry about the market value. You will still owe money next month."
Sheree Curry, HousingWatch Contributor, Refinancing for Underwater Homes: New HUD Program Pitches In, 5/12/2010. http://realestate.aol.com/article/refinance/_a/refinancing-for-underwater-homeowners-new-hud-program-pitches-in/201005120001?icid=main|main|dl4|link3|http%3A%2F%2Frealestate.aol.com%2Farticle%2Frefinance%2F_a%2Frefinancing-for-underwater-homeowners-new-hud-program-pitches-in%2F201005120001
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![]() Tax planning for homeowners should start well in
advance of the April 15 filing deadline each year. If you delay until the last
minute, it might be too late to maximize tax credits and tax deductions. These
tax tips for homeowners looking ahead to 2010 returns explain some of the things
you can do now that’ll pay off later on your 1040.
Take a day to
formulate a tax plan for the year. Depending on your circumstances, you might
want to take advantage of energy tax credits or max out your vacation home
deductions. The “What’s New in 2010” section of IRS
Publication 17 offers a sneak peek at tax changes that might affect
homeowners.
Claim remaining energy tax credits
It’s time to get cracking if you didn’t exhaust
your full allotment of residential energy
tax credits during 2009. Although tax credits for big projects like
residential wind turbines and solar energy systems have no upper limit and are
good through 2016, energy tax credits capped at $1,500 expire at the end of
2010. Eligible capped projects include new windows and doors, insulation,
roofing, water heaters, HVAC, and biomass stoves.
Here’s how it works
with capped federal credits: You can earn energy tax credits worth 30% of the
cost of qualifying improvements, but the total tax credits can’t
exceed $1,500 combined for 2009 and 2010. So if you only took, say, $700 worth
of capped energy credits on your 2009 tax return, you’re still due for another
$800 in credits in 2010. Some projects include the cost of installation—a
furnace, for example—while others, such as insulation, are limited to the cost
of materials.
Max out tax benefits of a vacation home
Use a vacation home wisely, and it’ll provide a
break from taxes as well as the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The rules on
tax deductions
for vacation homes can get a bit tricky, but understanding and adhering to
them can yield many happy tax returns.
If your vacation home is truly a
vacation home meant for your personal enjoyment, as opposed to a rental-only
income property, you can usually deduct mortgage interest and real estate taxes,
just as you would on your main home. You can even rent out the home for up to 14
days during the year without getting taxed on the rental income. Not
bad.
Now, let’s say you want to rent out your vacation home for more than
14 days in 2010, but also use it yourself from time to time. To maximize the tax
benefits, you need to keep tabs on how many days you use your vacation home. By
restricting your annual personal use to fewer than 15 days (or 10% of total
rental days, whichever is greater), you can treat your vacation home as a
rental-only income property for tax purposes.
Why is that a big deal? In
addition to mortgage interest and real estate taxes, rental-only income
properties are eligible for a slew of other tax deductions for everything from
utilities and condo fees to housecleaning and repairs. Deductions are limited
once personal use exceeds 14 days (or 10% of total rental days), so get out your
calendar now to strategically plot your vacations.
Take advantage of tax breaks for the military
In salute to members of the armed forces serving
overseas who want to purchase a home, the IRS is extending a lucrative tax perk for military personnel. If you spent at least 90 days
abroad performing qualified duty between Jan. 1, 2009, and April 30, 2010, you
have an extra year to earn a homebuyer tax credit. In addition to uniformed
service members, workers in the Foreign Service and in the intelligence
community are eligible.
Thanks to this extension of the homebuyer tax credit,
qualifying military personnel have until April 30, 2011, to sign a contract on a
new home. The deal must close before July 1, 2011. Just like non-military
buyers, first-time homebuyers can earn a tax credit worth up to $8,000, and
longtime homeowners can earn a credit of up to $6,500. The same income
restrictions and $800,000 cap on home prices apply.
Military personnel
can also get a break if official duty calls and they’re forced to move for an
extended period. Normally, the homebuyer tax credit needs to be repaid if you
sell your home within three years, but this requirement is waived for uniformed
service members, Foreign Service workers, and intelligence community personnel.
The new extended duty posting doesn’t need to be overseas, but it must be at
least 50 miles from your principal residence.
Challenge your real estate assessment
You can’t do much about the rate at which your
home is taxed, but you can try to do something about how your home is valued for
taxation purposes in 2010. The process varies depending where you live, but in
general local governments conduct a periodic real estate assessment to determine
how much your home is worth. That real estate assessment figure is used to
calculate your property tax bill.
You can usually appeal your real estate
assessment if you think it’s too high. Contact your local assessor’s office
to find out the procedure, and be prepared to do some research. There’s often no
charge to request a review of your assessment.
Look for errors. You
probably received an assessment letter in the mail, and many local governments
provide the information online as well. Make sure the number of bedrooms and
bathrooms is accurate, and the lot size is correct. Also check the assessed
value of comparable homes in your area. If they’re being assessed for less than
your home, you might have a case for relief.
Even if your assessment is
accurate and comparable homes are being taxed at the same rate, there might be
another route to tax savings. Ask your assessor’s office about available property tax
exemptions. Local governments often give breaks to seniors, veterans, and
the disabled, among others. Provided by houselogic, 5/3/2010 http://www.houselogic.com/articles/tax-tips-homeowners-looking-ahead-2010-returns/
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Remodeling Magazine's "Remodeling Cost vs. Value Report for
2007" found that more than 85% of the cost of building a wooden deck
could be recouped during resale — compared with 78% for a bathroom remodel and
69% for a family room addition. "When most people build a deck, it adds pretty
much dollar-for-dollar [value]," says Michael H. Evans, president of Evans
Appraisal Service in Chico, Calif. To find out more about the costs and benefits
of outdoor living spaces, U.S. News & World Report turned to Paul Mackie,
the western area manager of the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. Mackie
explained why building an outdoor living space is a smart move in today's
uncertain economy. Excerpts: Provided by http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=16613127 5/1/2010
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Substantial snowmelt and heavy spring rains signal the onset of summer’s heat
and humidity in the Midwest—extreme conditions that put stress on the exterior
of a house and other features, such as driveways and fences. Routine outdoor
maintenance helps ensure that your property withstands nature’s challenges while
preserving the value of your investment.
Maintain proper drainage
“Controlling water around the perimeter of the
house is always very important,” says David Tamny, Ohio resident and president
of the American Society of Home Inspectors. “In the Midwest, we have a lot of
expansive clay soil. Bad drainage around the house can cause foundation problems
and basement wetness issues, as well as mold.”
That means you’ll need
proper grading and gutters that are in good repair and cleared of debris, and
adequate downspout extensions. None of these is an expensive fix, but the price
of neglect is high: $3,000 or more to stabilize bowing in a block foundation; $10,000 or
more to straighten it.
Clean the gutters
Jammed gutters can send water cascading down walls and saturating soil next
to the foundation. The force of the accumulated water, known as hydrostatic
pressure, can crack the foundation, eventually causing it to bulge inward. Rid
your gutters of blockages using a gutter scoop. Use a garden hose to flush out
loose granules—the sand-like coating that protects asphalt shingles—and a
plumber’s snake to clear downspouts. Cost: $4 to $7 for a gutter scoop. Allow
about 4 hours to clear the gutters and downspouts.
Repair the gutters
Leaks at joints, missing hangers, or inadequate
pitch can lead to overflowing water that damages plantings and threatens your
foundation. Most gutter repairs are
relatively simple. Also check that the screws used in assembling the downspout
were cut off, so they won’t catch debris.
If you have any doubts about
the downspout’s ability to handle a deluge, install a larger drop outlet and
downspout, moving from a 2x3-inch downspout to a 3x4-inch. Extend downspout
discharge pipes at least 6 feet. Cost: $1 to $3 each for new hangers, $6 for
gutter caulk, $25 for a 6-foot extender and splash block, $20 for a 3x4-inch
drop outlet and 10-foot downspout. Allow half a day to make the repairs.
Correct the grade
The grade should slope away from the house at least 6 inches for every 10
feet. If possible, use soil with some clay content to divert the
water.
Or, lay down plastic sheeting, making sure it slopes away from the
house. Adhere the edge of the plastic to the foundation with silicone caulk.
Cover the plastic with soil, sand, or mulch. Keep the final grade at least 6
inches away from any siding or trim.
Cost: $40 for 10x100-foot roll of 4
mil plastic, $3.50 for a 50-pound bag of sand, $2.50 for 2 cubic feet of pine
bark mulch, $6.75 for a tube of silicone caulk. Allow a day to re-grade the
perimeter of your house.
Carpenter ants
Carpenter ants emerge in the early spring. Look for them in areas of clutter
near the house, especially woodpiles. If you have a crawlspace, look wherever
there might be warmth—under the water heater, kitchen range, or space heaters.
You may find the ants themselves, as well as telltale piles of shavings similar
to those from a pencil sharpener.
It’s possible to get rid of a small
infestation by applying insecticide powders and gels, but pros know how to get
to the nests to eradicate the problem. Cost: $40 for insecticide powder or gel.
Allow as much time as necessary to clear away woody debris that harbors the
ants.
Clearing debris will hinder termite infestations as well. However,
short of finding piles of old wings or sighting an emerging swarm, it’s hard to
be sure you have an infestation. If you suspect a termite problem, call in a
pro. You’ll pay $65 to $100 for a termite inspection.
Sprinkler & spigot maintenance
Turn on your system and check for damaged or misdirected sprinkler heads.
Look for puddles, a sign that there’s an underground leak in the system. Check
for dry areas too; you may have a blocked pipe that needs flushing, or a kinked
supply line. Cost: $3 to $15 per replaced sprinkler head, $2 to $5 for a
coupling to repair a leak. Allow a couple of hours to check the system.
If a hose bib or spigot is left undrained and unprotected through the
winter, the pipe can freeze and crack, creating a leak inside the wall. Repair
the pipe and install a frost-proof hose bib or inside shutoff for draining.
Cost: About $15 for a frost-proof hose bib. Plan on 2 to 4 hours to make the
replacement.
Inspect your siding
Trees and bushes may be crowding your house,
creating a situation bound to foster mold and, eventually, rot. Trim back bushes
and trees until there’s at least a 3-foot gap between the plantings and the
house. Cost: $15 for a pruning saw and $10 for pruning shears. Allow 1 to 2
hours for pruning.
If your siding looks dingy, follow up by washing with a light
solution of bleach or TSP (trisodium phosphate). Cost: $10 for cleaners. Allow 4
to 6 hours for the job.
Fences and gates
Check fence stiles and pickets for damage and replace as needed, using
galvanized fasteners. Push and pull on each post for signs of rot at its base.
If the post moves easily, make sure the soil around the base of the post is
firmly packed.
If the soil seems firm and the post still moves, it’s
probably rotted. Replace or repair it. For a quick fix, pound in a steel post
alongside it and wrap the two with wire.
Gate hinges and latches
typically don’t wear out, but their fasteners can loosen, causing the gate to
sag or be difficult to latch. Relocate them up or down a bit. Cost: $7.50 to $15
for a 5-feet cedar post; $3.50 for a steel post, $2 for wire. Allow 30 minutes
for a repair.
Sidewalks and driveways
Concrete and asphalt cracks no wider that ½-inch can be repaired with crack
filler. Larger damage should be repaired with patch material. If a section of
concrete walkway has tilted, there’s no easy DIY solution—hire a pro to
hydraulically reposition the slab. Expect to pay $350 to $800 to level a portion
of tilted or sunken walkway.
Cost: $4 for concrete or asphalt caulk.
Allow a couple of hours to fill cracks. Plan on $18 for a gallon of concrete
patch, $10 for asphalt patch. Allow 2 to 3 hours to repair a 2 sq. ft. area.
If you can see light colored aggregate showing through the sealer of an
asphalt driveway, it’s time to recoat. Cost: $20 for enough sealer to coat 350
sq. ft. of driveway, $11 for a brush applicator. Allow about 4 hours to sweep
and seal an average-size drive.
Clean the deck
Sweep away leaves and twigs and clean any debris
from between the planks. For a wood deck, use a deck cleaner. (Cedar,
redwood, and mahogany produce tannins that require special cleaning product.)
Give the deck a light sanding and apply a sealer to set it up for the
summer. Cost: About $13 per 100 sq. ft. for wood deck cleaner. If you’ve skipped
a season, add $10 per 100 sq. ft. for brightener. Sealer runs about $28 per 100
sq. ft. of coverage. Allow about 3 hours for the job.
Dave Toht has
written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including
titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and
Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas
magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. A native
Midwesterner, he considers gutter cleaning a rite of spring. info provided by houselogic http://www.houselogic.com/articles/your-guide-outdoor-maintenance-midwest/ 5/1/2010
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MDT has a
resurfacing project on Amsterdam Road that will be constructed this
summer. The work will include changing the current two-way left-turn lane
to a left-turn lane dedicated to traffic turning left from Amsterdam Road onto
Jackrabbit Lane. If all works well, this change could reduce the length
of the backed-up traffic by as much as 50%.
The second
project, which we hope will be constructed in 2011, will install a signal at
the intersection of Amsterdam Road and the Interstate 90 eastbound off
ramp. The project will also include the construction of a right-turn lane
on Jackrabbit for traffic turning west onto Amsterdam Road. The signal
will help traffic flow from the off ramp but may not do much for the congestion
on Amsterdam Road. The right-turn lane will on Jackrabbit should reduce
the evening congestion which occurs jackrabbit and the Interstate 90 westbound
off ramp.
We are also
planning to construct an onramp from Amsterdam Road that would be located next
to the existing eastbound off ramp. MDT needs to get approval from the
Federal Highway Administration (FHWA) to be allowed an additional access point
onto the Interstate. As you noted, this would do the most to relive the
current congestion. However, even assuming we get FHWA approval, this
project would not be constructed before 2012 and it is more likely it would not
be completed before 2013.
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