Jenifer Owens

8 Tips for Adding Curb Appeal and Value to Your Home

2010-07-08T22:22:00Z

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8 Tips for Adding Curb Appeal and Value to Your Home

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Pat Curry
Published: March 25, 2010

Appraisers and real estate agents offer advice for curb appeal that preserves value and attracts potential buyers.

Curb appeal has always been important for homesellers. With the vast majority of today's homebuyers starting their search on the Internet, the appearance of your property is more critical than ever. You only have a few seconds to catch their attention as they scroll through listings online to get them to stop and take a closer look.

But the role of curb appeal goes beyond just making a good first impression. The way your house looks from the street can impact its value. It can also shorten the time it takes to sell your house.

We asked real estate agents, appraisers, home stagers, landscape designers, and home inspectors which curb appeal projects offer the most value when your house is on the market, both in terms of its marketability and dollars. Here is what they told us:

1. Paint the house.

Hands down, the most commonly offered curb appeal advice from our real estate pros and appraisers is to give the exterior of your home a good paint job (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/exterior-paints-and-stains-guide-options/). Buyers will instantly notice it and appraisers will note it on the valuation.

"Paint is probably the number one thing inside and out," says Frank Lucco, managing partner of Houston-based IRR-Residential Appraisers and Consultants. "I'd give additional value for that. If you're under two years remaining life (on the paint job), paint the exterior because it tends to show wear badly."

Just make sure you stay within the range of accepted colors for your market. A house that's painted a wildly different color from its competition will be marked down in value by appraisers.

2. Have the house washed.

Before you make the investment in a paint job, though, take a good look at the house. If it's got mildew or general grunge, just washing the house (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/clean-and-care-siding/) could make a world of difference, says Valerie Torelli, a California real estate agent with a background in accounting.

Before she puts a house on the market, Torelli often does exterior makeovers on her clients' homes, a service she pays for herself to get higher selling prices. Overall, she says her goal is to spend less than $5,000, with a goal of generating an extra $10,000 to $15,000 on the sale price.

Torelli specifies pressure-washing-a job that should be left to professionals. Pressure washing makes the house look "bright and clean in addition to getting rid of unsightly things like cobwebs, which may not be seen from the yard but will detract from the home's cleanliness when seen up close," she says.

The cost to have a professional cleaning should be a few hundred dollars--a fraction of the cost of having the house painted.

3. Trim the shrubs and green up the yard.

California real estate agent Valerie Torelli says she puts a lot of emphasis on landscaping, such as cutting down overgrown bushes and replacing them with leafy plants and annuals mulched with beautiful reddish-brown bark. "It runs me $30 to $50," says Torelli. "Do you get a return on your money? Absolutely. It sucks people in."

You also don't want bare spots. Take the time to fertilize the yard (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/lawn-maintenance-calendar/), throw out some grass seed, and if need be, add some sod.

4. Add a splash of color.

It could be a flower bed of annuals by the mailbox, a paint job for the front door, or a brightly colored bench or an Adirondack chair. "You can get a cute little bench at Home Depot for $99," Torelli notes. "Spray paint it bright red or blue and set it in the yard or on the front porch."

It's not a bad idea, but don't plan on getting extra points from an appraiser for a red bench, says John Bredemeyer, president of Realcorp in Omaha. "It's difficult to quantify, but it does make a home sell more quickly," Bredemeyer says. "Maybe yours sold a couple weeks faster than the house down the street. That's the best way to look at these things."

5. Add a fancy mailbox and house numbers.

An upscale mail box and architectural house numbers or an address plaque can give your house a distinctive look that stands out from everyone else on the block. Torelli makes them a part of her exterior makeovers "I've gotten those hand-painted mailboxes," she says. "A nice one runs you $40 to $50." Architectural house numbers may run as high as a few hundred dollars.

6. Repair or clean the roof.

Springfield, Va.-based home inspector and former builder Reggie Marston says the roof (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/roofing-repair-or-replace/) is one of the first things he looks at in assessing the condition of a home. He'll look at other houses in the neighborhood to see if there are a lot of replaced roofs and see if the subject house has one as well. If not, he'll look for curls in the shingles or missing shingles. "I'm looking at the roof for end-of-life expectancy," he says.

You can pay for roof repairs now, or pay for them later in a lower appraisal; appraisers will mark down the value by the cost of the repair. That could knock thousands of dollars off your appraisal. According to Remodeling Magazine's 2009-2010 Cost vs. Value Report (http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/national.aspx), the average cost of a new asphalt shingle roof is more than $19,000.

"Roofs are issues," Lucco says. "You won't throw money away on that job. You gotta have a decent roof."

Stains and plant matter, such as moss, can be handled with cleaning. It's a job that can often be done in a day for a few hundred dollars, and makes the roof look like new. It's not a DIY project; call a professional with the right tools to clean it without damaging it.

7. Put up a fence.

A picket fence with a garden gate to frame the yard is an asset. A fence (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/fencing-guide-options/) has more impact in a family-oriented neighborhood than an upscale retirement community, Bredemeyer says, but in most instances, appraisers will give extra value for one, as long as it's in good condition. "Day in a day out, a fence is a plus," Bredemeyer says. Expect to pay $2,000 to $3,500 for a professionally installed gated picket fence 3 feet high and 100 feet long.

8. Perform routine maintenance and cleaning.

Nothing sets off subconscious alarms like hanging gutters (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/fast-fixes-common-gutter-problems/), missing bricks from the front steps, or lawn tools rusting in the bushes. It makes even the professionals question what else hasn't been taken care of.

"A house is worth less if the maintenance isn't done," Lucco says. "Those little things can add up and be a very big detractor. When people say, 'I'd buy it if it weren't for all the deferred maintenance (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/value-home-maintenance/),' what they're really saying is, 'I'd still buy it if you reduce the price.'"

Georgia-based freelance writer Pat Curry has covered housing and real estate for consumer and trade publications for more than a decade, including covering new home sales and marketing for BUILDER, the magazine of the National Association of Home Builders.

Fielding a Lowball Purchase Offer on Your Home - Bozeman Real Estate

2010-07-06T22:36:00Z

Fielding a Lowball Purchase Offer on Your Home

Article From BuyAndSell.HouseLogic.com

By: Marcie Geffner
Published: June 10, 2010

Consider before you ignore or outrightrefuse a very low purchase offer for your home. A counteroffer and negotiationcould turn that low purchase offer into a sale.

You just received a purchase offer fromsomeone who wants to buy your home. You're excited and relieved, until yourealize the purchase offer is much lower than your asking price. How should yourespond? Set aside your emotions, focus on the facts, and prepare acounteroffer that keeps the buyers involved in the deal.

Check your emotions

A purchase offer, even a very low one,means someone wants to purchase your home. Unless the offer is laughably low,it deserves a cordial response, whether that's a counteroffer or an outrightrejection. Remain calm and discuss with your real estate agent the many waysyou can respond to a lowball purchase offer.

Counter the purchase offer

Unless you've received multiple purchaseoffers, the best response is to counter the low offer with a price and termsyou're willing to accept. Some buyers make a low offer because they thinkthat's customary, they're afraid they'll overpay, or they want to test yourlimits.

A counteroffer signals that you're willing to negotiate. One strategy for yourcounteroffer is to lower your price, but remove any concessions such as sellerassistance with closing costs, or features such as kitchen appliances thatyou'd like to take with you.

Consider the terms

Price is paramount for most buyers and sellers,but it's not the only deal point. A low purchase offer might make sense if thecontingencies are reasonable, the closing date meets your needs, and the buyeris preapproved for a mortgage. Consider what terms you might change in acounteroffer to make the deal work.

Review your comps

Ask your REALTOR® whether any homesthat are comparable to yours (known as "comps") have been sold or puton the market since your home was listed for sale. If those new comps are atlower prices, you might have to lower your price to match them if you want tosell.

Consider the buyer's comps

Buyers sometimes attach comps to a lowoffer to try to convince the seller to accept a lower purchase offer. Take alook at those comps. Are the homes similar to yours? If so, your asking pricemight be unrealistic. If not, you might want to include in your counterofferinformation about those homes and your own comps that justify your askingprice.

If the buyers don't include comps to justify their low purchase offer, have yourreal estate agent ask the buyers' agent for those comps.

Get the agents together

If the purchase offer is too low tocounter, but you don't have a better option, ask your real estate agent to callthe buyer's agent and try to narrow the price gap so that a counteroffer wouldmake sense. Also, ask your real estate agent whether the buyer (or buyer'sagent) has a reputation for lowball purchase offers. If that's the case, youmight feel freer to reject the offer.

Don't signal desperation

Buyers are sensitive to signs that a sellermay be receptive to a low purchase offer. If your home is vacant or your home'slisting describes you as a "motivated" seller, you're signalingyou're open to a low offer.

If you can remedy the situation, maybe by renting furniture or asking youragent not to mention in your home listing that you're motivated, the nextpurchase offer you get might be more to your liking.

More from HouseLogic

6 Tips for Choosing the Best Purchase Offerfor Your Home (http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/6-tips-choosing-best-offer-your-home/)

6 Reasons to Reduce Your Home Price(http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/6-Reasons-To-Reduce-Your-Home-Price/)

Marcie Geffner is a freelance reporter who has been writing about real estate,homeownership and mortgages for 20 years. She owns a ranch-style house built in1941 and updated in the 1990s, in Los Angeles.

6 Reasons to Reduce Your Home Price

2010-07-06T22:35:00Z

6 Reasons to Reduce Your Home Price

Article From BuyAndSell.HouseLogic.com

By: G. M. Filisko
Published: March 19, 2010

While you'd like to get the best price foryour home, consider our six reasons to reduce your home price.

Home not selling? That could happen for anumber of reasons you can't control, like a unique home layout or having one ofthe few homes in the neighborhood without a garage. There is one factor you cancontrol: your home price.

These six signs may be telling you it'stime to lower your price.

1. You're drawing few lookers

You get the most interest in your homeright after you put it on the market because buyers want to catch a great newhome before anybody else takes it. If your real estate agent reports there havebeen fewer buyers calling about and asking to tour your home than there havebeen for other homes in your area, that may be a sign buyers think it'soverpriced and are waiting for the price to fall before viewing it.

2. You're drawing lots of lookers but have no offers

If you've had 30 sets of potential buyerscome through your home and not a single one has made an offer, something isoff. What are other agents telling your agent about your home? An overly highprice may be discouraging buyers from making an offer.

3. Your home's been on the market longer than similarhomes

Ask your real estate agent about theaverage number of days it takes to sell a home in your market. If the answer is30 and you're pushing 45, your price may be affecting buyer interest. When ahome sits on the market, buyers can begin to wonder if there's something wrongwith it, which can delay a sale even further. At least consider lowering yourasking price.

4. You have a deadline

If you've got to sell soon because of a jobtransfer or you've already purchased another home, it may be necessary togenerate buyer interest by dropping your price so your home is a little lowerpriced than comparable homes in your area. Remember: It's not how much moneyyou need that determines the sale price of your home, it's how much money abuyer is willing to spend.

5. You can't make upgrades

Maybe you're plum out of cash and don'thave the funds to put fresh paint on the walls, clean the carpets, and add curbappeal. But the feedback your agent is reporting from buyers is that your homeisn't as well-appointed as similarly priced homes. When your home has been onthe market longer than comparable homes in better condition, it's time toaccept that buyers expect to pay less for a home that doesn't show as well asothers.

6. The competition has changed

If weeks go by with no offers, continue tocheck out the competition. What have comparable homes sold for and what's stillon the market? What new listings have been added since you listed your home forsale? If comparable home sales or new listings show your price is too steep,consider a price reduction.

More from HouseLogic

How to ready your home for sale at littlecost (http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/5-tips-prepare-your-home-sale/)

How to review offers on your home(http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/6-tips-choosing-best-offer-your-home/)

Other web resources

Setting the right price

More on setting the right price (http://public.findlaw.com/abaflg/flg-4-4a-1.html)

G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who made strategic pricereductions that led to the sale of a Wisconsin property. A frequent contributorto many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR®Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in realestate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

We Have Moved!

2010-07-06T22:19:00Z

NewLocation, New Name!

BozemanMontana Real Estate

2149Durston Suite 33

BozemanMT 59718

Don'thesitate to contact us about your "home" questions! We offer FREEComparative Market Analysis. Whether you are selling your home yourselfor with us!

Save Money By Growing Fruit Trees - Bozeman

2010-06-11T15:19:00Z

Save Money By Growing Fruit Trees

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Veronica Lorson Fowler
Published: March 17, 2010

Money really can grow on trees! Cut your grocery bill while improving your landscape by planting and growing a fruit tree.

Investing in a fruit tree is a win-win-win-win proposition. You'll save money on your grocery bill; you'll improve the health of your family by assuring an ample supply of healthy produce (which you can grow organically if you want); you'll enhance your landscape with a pretty spring-flowering tree; and you'll have the satisfaction of growing your own food. As a bonus, the whole family will learn a delicious lesson about nature and gardening.

"With fruit trees, the return you get on your input is quite a bit," says Ron Perry, a Michigan State University professor of horticulture who specializes in fruit trees.

Your investment is minimal; figure $20 to $30 for a young tree and perhaps an hour to plant it. From that point, you'll also need patience. Most fruit trees take three years to start bearing, and up to five years to bear fully.

There are basically three types of trees. Full-sized fruit trees grow to be 30 feet tall and produce an overwhelming amount of fruit at maturity. For home gardens, semi-dwarf and dwarf trees are a better choice and are easier to harvest. Plan on harvesting in late summer through fall.

Semi-dwarf trees grow 12 to 15 feet tall and will produce hundreds of fruits. Dwarf trees grow 8 to 10 feet tall and produce perhaps a bushel or so of fruit, depending on the type and year.

How much will you save?

How much money you'll save by planting a fruit tree varies, depending on what you plant, the size of the tree, and your food buying and eating habits. Note that fruit trees tend to produce more heavily every other year.

On average, a single semi-dwarf apple tree may produce 40 or more pounds of fruit each year. With prices of apples ranging from 60 cents to $3.50 per pound, your tree might easily produce $80 worth of fruit. That reduces the annual amount a family of four spends on produce by 5% to 10%.

Plan on refrigerating some produce to keep it weeks longer. You'll see even more savings by freezing, canning, making preserves, or drying fruit (http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/) (a dehydrator costs about $60). This can shave another few dollars a week off your grocery bill and provide you with plenty of nutritious food to eat all year long.

Picking the right tree for your region

Choose fruit trees that are easy to grow in your region and which you and your family will be happy to eat.

Apples, pears, cherries and plums are among the best choices for home gardens, says Perry, because as long as you choose disease-resistant types, they require little spraying or fuss that commercial growers lavish on their trees to assure the biggest, most perfect, store ready fruits.

You can find a disease-resistant variety of fruit tree that will do well in your area by contacting your government-funded local cooperative extension service (http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/). Or, find out even faster by Googling the following four words together: "Recommended," the type of fruit (such as "apple"), "trees," and the name of your state, such as "Illinois."

Some fruit trees need a second tree for cross-pollination by bees in order to produce fruit. Check the plant label or catalog description to be sure.

Here are some tips for growing the best fruit trees for home gardens:

Apples: Most varieties need a second tree for cross-pollination. Disease-resistant varieties are Freedom and Liberty. Increase savings by making apple butter, applesauce, and drying. Apple trees do well in Zones 3 through 9 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).

Pears: These often need a second tree for cross-pollination. Delicious, Harrow Delight, and Moonglow are particularly resistant to disease. Increase savings by canning and making pear butter. Pear trees do well in Zones 4 through 9 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).

Cherries: Sour cherries do not need a cross-pollinator tree nearby. They are excellent for pies and baking, and all sour cherry trees are highly disease- and pest-resistant. Sour cherries do well in Zones 4 through 8 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).

Most sweet cherries need a cross-pollinating tree. They're excellent for eating fresh. Freeze extra cherries for even more savings. They do well in Zones 5 through 8 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).

Plums: Japanese and American plums always need a cross-pollinator; European types usually do. European types, such as Damson, are the most disease- and pest-resistant. Make plum jam or dry plums for even more savings. Plum trees do well in Zones 4 through 9 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).

Peaches: Most peaches do not need a cross-pollinator. You need to be diligent about spraying if you want large, blemish-free fruits. Can peaches, make jam, or freeze peaches for more savings. Peach trees do well in Zones 6 through 9 (http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html).

Growing fruit trees

The main requirement for a fruit tree is full sun-at least 8 hours of direct, unfiltered light a day.

Space is also important. Allow as much space between trees and other plantings as the tree will be at mature height. Space full-size fruit trees 30 feet apart; plan 15 feet between semi-dwarf trees and 10 feet between dwarf trees.

Plant fruit tree saplings in spring. Planting is easy--simply dig a hole about 12 inches deeper and wider than the root ball of the tree. Work in a shovelful or two of compost, then set the tree in the hole and backfill. Keep well watered for the first few weeks.

Saplings come from the nursery with their roots in containers. Plant the tree so that the trunk is at the same depth it was in the container. If the tree is bare-root, that is, sold in a bag with its roots exposed, plant it so the knobby bud union that joins the trunk with the roots is 1 to 2 inches above soil level.

Prune your fruit trees as directed by the planting instructions that come with the tree. Each spring, minimize disease problems by spraying with an organic horticultural oil (a $10 bottle will last you a few years) diluted in a $25 pump sprayer.

Veronica Lorson Fowler grew up on a farm and has gardened since she was a child. A garden writer for more than 20 years, she has written and edited numerous garden books, and has written hundreds of garden articles for web sites and national magazines. She tends her own highly varied garden, which includes several fruit trees, in Ames, Iowa.

7 Gardening Mistakes to Avoid - Bozeman

2010-06-11T14:56:00Z

7 Gardening Mistakes to Avoid

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Oliver Marks
Published: March 15, 2010

Novice gardeners can get their landscapes off to a healthy start by heeding some tried-and-true tips from the pros.

Gardening is just about the simplest do-it-yourself home improvement work there is. If you can dig a hole, turn on a spigot, and snip a dead flower off a vine, you've got the basic skills down. Still, you do have to make some judgment calls, so it helps to know the ground rules, so to speak, that can help you avoid making some rookie mistakes.

Mistake #1: Making changes too soon

Take the excitement of buying a home, add a nice stretch of spring weather, and you get a lot of enthusiasm for doing yard work. That's great; seize the day, but don't jump into wholesale landscape changes, like pulling out plants or reorganizing the layout quite yet.

"That weed that you want to yank out in the spring might turn out to be a gorgeous fall-blooming vine," says Gary Blondell, owner of Gary's Gardens, a nursery in Severna Park, Md. Plus, it takes time to learn the landscape and figure out exactly what changes make sense.

Avoid this by: Living with the landscape for a full year, so you can observe it in all seasons.

Mistake #2: Planting too close together

You buy a wheelbarrow full of young shrubs and perennials and plant them in a pleasing arrangement. But if they look properly spaced now, they're actually way too close together.

Unless you're creating an evergreen hedge, when the idea is packing things tightly together, the immature plantings will grow into each other in a few years and struggle to compete for sun, water, and soil nutrients. You'll either have to dig them up and transplant them-or possibly throw them away.

Avoid this by: Following the spacing requirements on the plant label-even though the results will look absurdly sparse at first.

Mistake #3: Planting without a plan

Putting in new garden beds without a long-term landscape plan is like tiling, painting, and wallpapering your house before you figure out your future remodeling plans: There's a good chance you'll have to undo your efforts in the near future.

Avoid this by: Drawing a simple, bird's eye view sketch of your yard, and figuring out the rough location of any future construction-additions, patios, outbuildings, pools-so you can plant around them.

A good local nursery or home improvement store can help you with your design. Or you can hire a landscape designer to create a starter plan for as little as $250 to $500. Find a professional at the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (http://www.apld.com) or the American Society of Landscape Architects (http://www.asla.org).

Mistake #4: Neglecting the root ball

Even the hardiest plants need a little help getting their roots established in their new locations. But just turning on the sprinkler every day to douse the foliage isn't enough to ensure that they get the nutrients and hydration they need. You have to get the water to a plant's nerve center--the root ball below ground--or it's going to be stunted or short-lived.

Avoid this by: Placing the hose near the root ball and setting the water to a trickle for about 20 to 30 minutes. Do this twice a week-more during hot, dry spells-for the first four to 12 weeks. Choosing the right irrigation system can help with this task while saving water (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/).

Mistake #5: Ignoring your yard's sun conditions

Too many nursery shoppers pick plants based only on looks-not the growing conditions they need, which are almost always indicated on a label wrapped around the trunk or a marker pressed into the soil. "They put a sun-loving perennial under a dense tree or something that wants partial shade out in full-day sunshine," says Blondell. "It looks great for about a week, and then it begins to die."

Avoid this by: Watching the spot where you're going to put the plant and estimating the amount of sun it gets over the course of the day during the growing season. To translate that to the language on plant labels, use this key:

Full Sun 6 hours a day or more Part Sun/Part Shade 3 to 5 hours Shade Less than 3 hours

Mistake #6: Misusing irrigation systems

An automatic irrigation system is a luxury that allows you to keep your landscape hydrated throughout the growing season with almost no effort. Unfortunately, with the wrong settings, it can also bring disease, root rot, and an untimely death to the plants in your landscape.

"People tend to set their systems to come on for 15 or 20 minutes each morning," says Blondell. "That provides a nice saturation of the surface, but not a deep penetrating soak to reach the roots of large shrubs and trees." And a deeper soak is better for the lawn, too, because it promotes deep root systems.

Avoid this by: Watering for longer intervals-say, 40 to 60 minutes-only two to three times a week. Check with the company that maintains your irrigation system for local recommendations.

Mistake #7: Not budgeting for landscaping during construction projects

Whether you're building a house or an addition, the bulldozers that excavate the job and the pickups that park on the lawn will damage the grass, trees, and shrubs. And the new building configuration will call for new landscape plantings.

Unfortunately, homeowners don't often include money in their budgets for this work. So you wind up with a beautiful new family room, screened porch, or solarium, with a few azaleas thrown in around the foundation as an afterthought.

Avoid this by: Allocating 10 to 20 percent of your construction budget to the landscape-both hardscaping and plants-or at least making plans to spend that money as soon as possible after the construction job is complete.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He's entering his second summer at his house and has big plans for upgrading its scraggly foundation plantings.

Key to Healthy Lawn

2010-06-01T18:55:00Z

A healthy, well-maintained lawn is more than just good-looking—it’s a key to preserving the value of your home. Regular lawn maintenance enhances curb appeal, making your home—and neighborhood—attractive to passersby and potential buyers.

According to Su Chi Straka-Phillis, a residential real estate appraiser with Central Appraisal Services of Parma, Ohio, a well-kept lawn preserves a home’s value.

Put off routine maintenance, and you risk devaluing your home. In fact, an unkempt lawn can be a warning sign to buyers of other potential home maintenance issues, explains Cecilia Sherrard, a real estate agent in Rocky River, Ohio. “The outside of the home is the first thing people see, and if it’s not properly maintained, many will not be interested in scheduling a showing to see the inside.”

Know your grass type

There are two main types of lawn grass: cool-season and warm-season. Homeowners living in the Northeast, Midwest, and Northwest should grow cool-season grasses. As depicted on the Plant Heat-Zone Map provided by the American Horticultural Society, the regions for cool-season grasses are approximately zones 1 through 7.

Cool-season grasses do most of their growing in spring and fall, often going dormant in the summer. Cool-season grasses include bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine grass.

Those living in the Southeast and Southwest (zones 8 through 12) will generally have warm-season grasses. Warm-season grasses thrive from late spring to early fall and go dormant in the winter. Varieties include tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.

If you’re unsure which zone applies to you, check your state extension service.

Mowing

Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall

“The taller the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the soil holds between watering,” explains Richard Hentschel of the University of Illinois Extension. Hentschel recommends the mower blade height be permanently set to 3 inches.

In prime growing season (spring and fall for cool-season; summer for warm), homeowners should mow frequently enough so they’re removing no more than one-third of the grass blade. If possible, resist the urge to mow the grass when wet, as the practice can spread diseases that affect lawns.

Mower blades should be sharpened monthly to ensure clean, sharp cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens. Consider spending about $20 for a backup blade so that a sharp one is always on hand.

Watering

Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall

Deep and infrequent watering is better for lawns than frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth, says Hentschel. In general, lawns need about one inch of water per week to maintain green color and active growth.

Lawns that receive less than that will likely go into dormancy. To stay alive, dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of water per month.

To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water the lawn receives naturally. Allowing a cool-season lawn to go dormant in the summer can save hundreds of gallons of water, depending on the size of your lawn.

Feeding

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Early fall

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late spring

“It used to be common to fertilize a lawn three or four times per year,” says Hentschel. “Now we suggest just once a year when it will do the most good.” For cool-season grasses, that time is early fall, so the grass enters winter dormancy in a much healthier state.

For warm-season grasses, the best time to fertilize is late spring, just as the grass begins its most active growth. For best results, closely follow the application directions on the product. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

People interested in organic fertilizers have never had an easier time finding them at local garden centers. Homeowners who mow regularly with mulching mowers are encouraged to leave the clippings on the ground, where they’ll decompose and recycle nutrients into the soil.

Weed-control herbicide application

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Fall

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late winter

Homeowners should embrace the idea that an occasional weed is OK, says Hentschel. For minor weed invasions, removal by hand of the entire plant and roots is recommended. When the situation becomes impossible to contain by hand, it might be necessary to apply an herbicide.

For cool-season grasses, the best time to apply a weed killer is in fall, when both old and new weeds can be eliminated before winter. Warm-season grasses often benefit from a late-winter application of a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weeds from growing.

In place of weed and feed products, which are spread over the entire lawn, Hentschel prefers liquid-based herbicides that are applied only where needed. It’s imperative to read and follow all directions on herbicide labels. Cost is around $15 to $45 per application.

Grub control

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Early summer

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late summer

Grub worms, the larval stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, feed on the tender root systems of lawns. Affected lawns exhibit browning and wilting patches.

To be certain that the culprits are grubs, Hentschel suggests that homeowners pull back the sod and look for white, C-shaped grubs. If they’re present at a rate exceeding 10 per square foot, they should be treated with a chemical pesticide.

Milky spore is an environmentally friendly way to control some species of grubs. When using insecticides, read and follow all label directions and water the product into the soil immediately. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

Patching

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Early fall

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Early summer

The best time to patch bare or thin spots in a lawn is at the start of the grass’s most favorable growing period. For cool-season grasses that means waiting until the hot, dry days of summer have given way to cooler fall temps.

Warm-season grasses thrive in summer, so it’s best to sow seeds at the start of that season. Hentschel says to buy only high quality disease-resistant seed with good germination rates, which by law have to be listed on the label. Cost is anywhere from $20 to $75, depending on the size of the areas to be patched.

Cleanup

Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall

Although small particles of grass are fine to leave on the lawn, large piles that exit a side-discharge mower should be removed. Fallen leaves, twigs, and debris should be raked up regularly. In climates where it snows, it’s best to remove fall leaves before winter. A thick layer of wet leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring.

Download our free PDF worksheet for an easy-to-use seasonal maintenance task chart.

Douglas Trattner has covered home maintenance and improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he’s upgraded the furnace, added insulation, replaced most appliances, and mowed his lawn every time but once.

http://www.houselogic.com/articles/lawn-maintenance-calendar/

For Sale by Owner Tips - Bozeman Montana Real Estate

2010-05-26T14:50:00Z

For Sale by Owner Tips

1.) Detach Yourself Emotionally From Your Home.

a. Step back and ask for friend’s advice to help you open your eyes to things that can be fixed. This is not a time to take things personally but to regroup and make necessary changes to make your home sale successful.

2.) Spice up Curb Appeal

a. Before you place your home on the market make sure your home is in top shape. In a competitive buyers market first impressions are everything! If you leave chipped paint, old musty carpets, broken windows, or a withering front yard you may lose buyers or even reduce your potential purchase price.

3.) Set a Realistic Price

a. Many buyers price their home based upon personal opinions and not what the current market value is. If you start off wrong and let your home sit on the market buyers will take note and use that against you when you receive a buy/sell.

1. Some real estate professionals will prepare a “Competitive Market Analysis” or CMA for free.

b. At this time you should determine if you are willing to work with realtors who want to show your home to clients. If you choose not to you could potentially loose many valuable buyers.

4.) Get Your Home Noticed

a. Create a webpage for your home with websites like Postlets.

1. Take pictures! If you don’t you will lose more potential buyers than you can fathom.

b. Visit local real estate offices with flyers that include your homes web address.

5.) Showings

a. When you finally get that showing that you have been working so hard for make sure your home is in top shape.

1. Clean off the counters, if you have countless pictures that cover the walls get rid of them (except a few).

b. Detach yourself.

c. Don’t crowed the potential buyers.

6.) Offers

a. If you get one soon don’t be greedy. Take that step back that we have been ramming into your brain. How badly do you want to move? Would you be willing to stay in your home for another six months to a year?

b. Take some time to think it over you can make negotiations just be realistic.

5 Tips to Prepare Your Home for Sale

2010-05-25T20:23:00Z

5 Tips to Prepare Your Home for Sale

Many buyers today want move-in-ready homes and will quickly eliminate an otherwise great home by focusing on a few visible flaws. Unless your home shines, you may endure showing after showing and open house after open house—and end up with a lower sales price. Before the first prospect walks through your door, consider some smart options for casting your home in its best light.

1. Have a home inspection

Be proactive by arranging for a pre-sale home inspection. For $250 to $400, an inspector will warn you about troubles that could make potential buyers balk. Make repairs before putting your home on the market. In some states, you may have to disclose what the inspection turns up.

2. Get replacement estimates

If your home inspection uncovers necessary repairs you can’t fund, get estimates for the work. The figures will help buyers determine if they can afford the home and the repairs. Also hunt down warranties, guarantees, and user manuals for your furnace, washer and dryer, dishwasher, and any other items you expect to remain with the house.

3. Make minor repairs

Not every repair costs a bundle. Fix as many small problems—sticky doors, torn screens, cracked caulking, dripping faucets—as you can. These may seem trivial, but they’ll give buyers the impression your house isn’t well maintained.

4. Clear the clutter

Clear your kitchen counters of just about everything. Clean your closets by packing up little-used items like out-of-season clothes and old toys. Install closet organizers to maximize space. Put at least one-third of your furniture in storage, especially large pieces, such as entertainment centers and big televisions. Pack up family photos, knickknacks, and wall hangings to depersonalize your home. Store the items you’ve packed offsite or in boxes neatly arranged in your garage or basement.

5. Do a thorough cleaning

A clean house makes a strong first impression that your home has been well cared for. If you can afford it, consider hiring a cleaning service.

If not, wash windows and leave them open to air out your rooms. Clean carpeting and drapes to eliminate cooking odors, smoke, and pet smells. Wash light fixtures and baseboards, mop and wax floors, and give your stove and refrigerator a thorough once-over.

Pay attention to details, too. Wash fingerprints from light switch plates, clean inside the cabinets, and polish doorknobs. Don’t forget to clean your garage, too.

http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/5-tips-prepare-your-home-sale/

Great Bozeman Contractor-Fantasty Decks and Custom Interiors

2010-05-12T22:11:00Z

I have had a great experience with this contractor. He has done work on my house and several clients. He is very detail oriented.

Contact Info:

Fantasy Decks and Custom Interiors

406-579-9404

It is very important for you to do your own research and interviewing when selecting someone to work on one of your largest asset's. While I have had a wonderful experience I expect everyone to always use due diligence.

Refinancing for Underwater Homes: New HUD Program Pitches In - MUST READ

2010-05-12T21:53:00Z

Many underwater homeowners-those who owe more on their home than it is currently worth-feel stuck. They can't sell without taking a major loss, and they often can't refinance because the appraiser's report doesn't past muster. If they want to take advantage of some mortgage modification programs, they're often told they need to be behind in their mortgage first.

But what if they are current on their mortgage? Well, the government has a new plan for these homeowners.

Under a new U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) program, homeowners who are current on their loans can reduce their hefty loan-to-value mortgage debt by 10 percent, if they qualify and if their lender approves. This is big news, especially for homeowners in the five hardest-hit states--Nevada, Arizona, Florida, Michigan and California-where between 35 percent and 70 percent of existing homes have underwater mortgages.

"Negative equity is a significant drag on both the housing market and on economic growth," said Mark Fleming, chief economist with First American CoreLogic. "It is driving foreclosures and decreasing mobility for millions of homeowners." Negative equity and near-negative equity mortgages account for nearly 29 percent of all U.S. residential properties with a mortgage.

First American CoreLogic reported in February that more than 11.3 million of residential mortgages held negative equity in their homes at the end of 2009, up from 10.7 million in third quarter. An additional 2.3 million homes were approaching near-negative equity. "Once negative equity exceeds 25 percent, or the mortgage balance is $70,000 higher than the current property values, owners begin to default," according to the CoreLogic report.

As many as 4 million homeowners could get help by 2012 from expanded FHA programs, with the federal government funding the program for up to $50 billion through the Troubled Asset Relief Program or TARP.

But Jay Dacey, a mortgage planner in Plymouth, Minn., cautions homeowners before they jump into these government-initiated programs. "The programs the government has tried to instill to date have completely failed," he says. "I believe if you do one of these it might adversely affect your credit because it will show that you settled for less. I would tell the consumer to make sure they understand the credit consequences in advance." So do your homework, he cautions.

Here is what's on the table with HUD's latest program:

* The total mortgage amount for the borrower after refinancing cannot be greater than 115 percent of the current value of the home. After all, the goal is to lower a mortgage to be closer to today's actual value.
* The homeowner must occupy the home as their primary residence.
* The homeowners must qualify for a new FHA loan under standard FHA borrower guidelines.
* The homeowners must have a FICO credit score of at least 500-which is a lower than getting a traditional mortgage.
* The existing loan cannot be FHA-insured. That's because FHA guidelines doesn't allow its own loans to be reduced.
* The lender must agree to write down the principal loan balance a minimum of 10 percent and the final loan amount cannot exceed 115 percent of the current value of the home (including any second mortgages).
* The refinanced FHA loan cannot be greater than 97.75 percent of the value of the home. This means if you may have to bring money to the closing table to lower it further. If you don't have cash on hand, you can get the second loan to cover the difference.

This is relief for those who might not otherwise be approved by the Home Affordable Modification Program (HAMP). Under HAMP, more than 1.4 million homeowners received offers for trial modifications and more than 1.1 million borrowers were receiving a median savings of $500 each month as of the end of April. Permanent modifications have been granted to more than 230,000 homeowners, and an additional 108,000 permanent modifications have been approved by servicers and are pending borrower acceptance. But still that is not enough, given the CoreLogic numbers.

"Housing is a long-term investment, and homeowners should just focus on making the next payment," says mortgage planner Dacey. "Don't worry about the market value. You will still owe money next month."

Sheree Curry, HousingWatch Contributor, Refinancing for Underwater Homes: New HUD Program Pitches In, 5/12/2010. http://realestate.aol.com/article/refinance/_a/refinancing-for-underwater-homeowners-new-hud-program-pitches-in/201005120001?icid=main|main|dl4|link3|http%3A%2F%2Frealestate.aol.com%2Farticle%2Frefinance%2F_a%2Frefinancing-for-underwater-homeowners-new-hud-program-pitches-in%2F201005120001

Tax Tips for Homeowners Looking Ahead to 2010 Returns

2010-05-03T18:20:00Z

Tax planning for homeowners should start well in advance of the April 15 filing deadline each year. If you delay until the last minute, it might be too late to maximize tax credits and tax deductions. These tax tips for homeowners looking ahead to 2010 returns explain some of the things you can do now that’ll pay off later on your 1040.

Take a day to formulate a tax plan for the year. Depending on your circumstances, you might want to take advantage of energy tax credits or max out your vacation home deductions. The “What’s New in 2010” section of IRS Publication 17 offers a sneak peek at tax changes that might affect homeowners.

Claim remaining energy tax credits

It’s time to get cracking if you didn’t exhaust your full allotment of residential energy tax credits during 2009. Although tax credits for big projects like residential wind turbines and solar energy systems have no upper limit and are good through 2016, energy tax credits capped at $1,500 expire at the end of 2010. Eligible capped projects include new windows and doors, insulation, roofing, water heaters, HVAC, and biomass stoves.

Here’s how it works with capped federal credits: You can earn energy tax credits worth 30% of the cost of qualifying improvements, but the total tax credits can’t exceed $1,500 combined for 2009 and 2010. So if you only took, say, $700 worth of capped energy credits on your 2009 tax return, you’re still due for another $800 in credits in 2010. Some projects include the cost of installation—a furnace, for example—while others, such as insulation, are limited to the cost of materials.

Max out tax benefits of a vacation home

Use a vacation home wisely, and it’ll provide a break from taxes as well as the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The rules on tax deductions for vacation homes can get a bit tricky, but understanding and adhering to them can yield many happy tax returns.

If your vacation home is truly a vacation home meant for your personal enjoyment, as opposed to a rental-only income property, you can usually deduct mortgage interest and real estate taxes, just as you would on your main home. You can even rent out the home for up to 14 days during the year without getting taxed on the rental income. Not bad.

Now, let’s say you want to rent out your vacation home for more than 14 days in 2010, but also use it yourself from time to time. To maximize the tax benefits, you need to keep tabs on how many days you use your vacation home. By restricting your annual personal use to fewer than 15 days (or 10% of total rental days, whichever is greater), you can treat your vacation home as a rental-only income property for tax purposes.

Why is that a big deal? In addition to mortgage interest and real estate taxes, rental-only income properties are eligible for a slew of other tax deductions for everything from utilities and condo fees to housecleaning and repairs. Deductions are limited once personal use exceeds 14 days (or 10% of total rental days), so get out your calendar now to strategically plot your vacations.

Take advantage of tax breaks for the military

In salute to members of the armed forces serving overseas who want to purchase a home, the IRS is extending a lucrative tax perk for military personnel. If you spent at least 90 days abroad performing qualified duty between Jan. 1, 2009, and April 30, 2010, you have an extra year to earn a homebuyer tax credit. In addition to uniformed service members, workers in the Foreign Service and in the intelligence community are eligible.

Thanks to this extension of the homebuyer tax credit, qualifying military personnel have until April 30, 2011, to sign a contract on a new home. The deal must close before July 1, 2011. Just like non-military buyers, first-time homebuyers can earn a tax credit worth up to $8,000, and longtime homeowners can earn a credit of up to $6,500. The same income restrictions and $800,000 cap on home prices apply.

Military personnel can also get a break if official duty calls and they’re forced to move for an extended period. Normally, the homebuyer tax credit needs to be repaid if you sell your home within three years, but this requirement is waived for uniformed service members, Foreign Service workers, and intelligence community personnel. The new extended duty posting doesn’t need to be overseas, but it must be at least 50 miles from your principal residence.

Challenge your real estate assessment

You can’t do much about the rate at which your home is taxed, but you can try to do something about how your home is valued for taxation purposes in 2010. The process varies depending where you live, but in general local governments conduct a periodic real estate assessment to determine how much your home is worth. That real estate assessment figure is used to calculate your property tax bill.

You can usually appeal your real estate assessment if you think it’s too high. Contact your local assessor’s office to find out the procedure, and be prepared to do some research. There’s often no charge to request a review of your assessment.

Look for errors. You probably received an assessment letter in the mail, and many local governments provide the information online as well. Make sure the number of bedrooms and bathrooms is accurate, and the lot size is correct. Also check the assessed value of comparable homes in your area. If they’re being assessed for less than your home, you might have a case for relief.

Even if your assessment is accurate and comparable homes are being taxed at the same rate, there might be another route to tax savings. Ask your assessor’s office about available property tax exemptions. Local governments often give breaks to seniors, veterans, and the disabled, among others.

Provided by houselogic, 5/3/2010 http://www.houselogic.com/articles/tax-tips-homeowners-looking-ahead-2010-returns/

Home much value do decks add to your home?

2010-05-01T19:41:00Z

Remodeling Magazine's "Remodeling Cost vs. Value Report for 2007" found that more than 85% of the cost of building a wooden deck could be recouped during resale — compared with 78% for a bathroom remodel and 69% for a family room addition. "When most people build a deck, it adds pretty much dollar-for-dollar [value]," says Michael H. Evans, president of Evans Appraisal Service in Chico, Calif. To find out more about the costs and benefits of outdoor living spaces, U.S. News & World Report turned to Paul Mackie, the western area manager of the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. Mackie explained why building an outdoor living space is a smart move in today's uncertain economy. Excerpts:

Provided by http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=16613127 5/1/2010

Your Guide to Outdoor Maintenance — Midwest

2010-05-01T19:37:00Z

Substantial snowmelt and heavy spring rains signal the onset of summer’s heat and humidity in the Midwest—extreme conditions that put stress on the exterior of a house and other features, such as driveways and fences. Routine outdoor maintenance helps ensure that your property withstands nature’s challenges while preserving the value of your investment.

Maintain proper drainage

“Controlling water around the perimeter of the house is always very important,” says David Tamny, Ohio resident and president of the American Society of Home Inspectors. “In the Midwest, we have a lot of expansive clay soil. Bad drainage around the house can cause foundation problems and basement wetness issues, as well as mold.”

That means you’ll need proper grading and gutters that are in good repair and cleared of debris, and adequate downspout extensions. None of these is an expensive fix, but the price of neglect is high: $3,000 or more to stabilize bowing in a block foundation; $10,000 or more to straighten it.

Clean the gutters

Jammed gutters can send water cascading down walls and saturating soil next to the foundation. The force of the accumulated water, known as hydrostatic pressure, can crack the foundation, eventually causing it to bulge inward. Rid your gutters of blockages using a gutter scoop. Use a garden hose to flush out loose granules—the sand-like coating that protects asphalt shingles—and a plumber’s snake to clear downspouts. Cost: $4 to $7 for a gutter scoop. Allow about 4 hours to clear the gutters and downspouts.

Repair the gutters

Leaks at joints, missing hangers, or inadequate pitch can lead to overflowing water that damages plantings and threatens your foundation. Most gutter repairs are relatively simple. Also check that the screws used in assembling the downspout were cut off, so they won’t catch debris.

If you have any doubts about the downspout’s ability to handle a deluge, install a larger drop outlet and downspout, moving from a 2x3-inch downspout to a 3x4-inch. Extend downspout discharge pipes at least 6 feet. Cost: $1 to $3 each for new hangers, $6 for gutter caulk, $25 for a 6-foot extender and splash block, $20 for a 3x4-inch drop outlet and 10-foot downspout. Allow half a day to make the repairs.

Correct the grade

The grade should slope away from the house at least 6 inches for every 10 feet. If possible, use soil with some clay content to divert the water.

Or, lay down plastic sheeting, making sure it slopes away from the house. Adhere the edge of the plastic to the foundation with silicone caulk. Cover the plastic with soil, sand, or mulch. Keep the final grade at least 6 inches away from any siding or trim.

Cost: $40 for 10x100-foot roll of 4 mil plastic, $3.50 for a 50-pound bag of sand, $2.50 for 2 cubic feet of pine bark mulch, $6.75 for a tube of silicone caulk. Allow a day to re-grade the perimeter of your house.

Carpenter ants

Carpenter ants emerge in the early spring. Look for them in areas of clutter near the house, especially woodpiles. If you have a crawlspace, look wherever there might be warmth—under the water heater, kitchen range, or space heaters. You may find the ants themselves, as well as telltale piles of shavings similar to those from a pencil sharpener.

It’s possible to get rid of a small infestation by applying insecticide powders and gels, but pros know how to get to the nests to eradicate the problem. Cost: $40 for insecticide powder or gel. Allow as much time as necessary to clear away woody debris that harbors the ants.

Clearing debris will hinder termite infestations as well. However, short of finding piles of old wings or sighting an emerging swarm, it’s hard to be sure you have an infestation. If you suspect a termite problem, call in a pro. You’ll pay $65 to $100 for a termite inspection.

Sprinkler & spigot maintenance

Turn on your system and check for damaged or misdirected sprinkler heads. Look for puddles, a sign that there’s an underground leak in the system. Check for dry areas too; you may have a blocked pipe that needs flushing, or a kinked supply line. Cost: $3 to $15 per replaced sprinkler head, $2 to $5 for a coupling to repair a leak. Allow a couple of hours to check the system.

If a hose bib or spigot is left undrained and unprotected through the winter, the pipe can freeze and crack, creating a leak inside the wall. Repair the pipe and install a frost-proof hose bib or inside shutoff for draining. Cost: About $15 for a frost-proof hose bib. Plan on 2 to 4 hours to make the replacement.

Inspect your siding

Trees and bushes may be crowding your house, creating a situation bound to foster mold and, eventually, rot. Trim back bushes and trees until there’s at least a 3-foot gap between the plantings and the house. Cost: $15 for a pruning saw and $10 for pruning shears. Allow 1 to 2 hours for pruning.

If your siding looks dingy, follow up by washing with a light solution of bleach or TSP (trisodium phosphate). Cost: $10 for cleaners. Allow 4 to 6 hours for the job.

Fences and gates

Check fence stiles and pickets for damage and replace as needed, using galvanized fasteners. Push and pull on each post for signs of rot at its base. If the post moves easily, make sure the soil around the base of the post is firmly packed.

If the soil seems firm and the post still moves, it’s probably rotted. Replace or repair it. For a quick fix, pound in a steel post alongside it and wrap the two with wire.

Gate hinges and latches typically don’t wear out, but their fasteners can loosen, causing the gate to sag or be difficult to latch. Relocate them up or down a bit. Cost: $7.50 to $15 for a 5-feet cedar post; $3.50 for a steel post, $2 for wire. Allow 30 minutes for a repair.

Sidewalks and driveways

Concrete and asphalt cracks no wider that ½-inch can be repaired with crack filler. Larger damage should be repaired with patch material. If a section of concrete walkway has tilted, there’s no easy DIY solution—hire a pro to hydraulically reposition the slab. Expect to pay $350 to $800 to level a portion of tilted or sunken walkway.

Cost: $4 for concrete or asphalt caulk. Allow a couple of hours to fill cracks. Plan on $18 for a gallon of concrete patch, $10 for asphalt patch. Allow 2 to 3 hours to repair a 2 sq. ft. area.

If you can see light colored aggregate showing through the sealer of an asphalt driveway, it’s time to recoat. Cost: $20 for enough sealer to coat 350 sq. ft. of driveway, $11 for a brush applicator. Allow about 4 hours to sweep and seal an average-size drive.

Clean the deck

Sweep away leaves and twigs and clean any debris from between the planks. For a wood deck, use a deck cleaner. (Cedar, redwood, and mahogany produce tannins that require special cleaning product.)

Give the deck a light sanding and apply a sealer to set it up for the summer. Cost: About $13 per 100 sq. ft. for wood deck cleaner. If you’ve skipped a season, add $10 per 100 sq. ft. for brightener. Sealer runs about $28 per 100 sq. ft. of coverage. Allow about 3 hours for the job.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. A native Midwesterner, he considers gutter cleaning a rite of spring.

info provided by houselogic http://www.houselogic.com/articles/your-guide-outdoor-maintenance-midwest/

5/1/2010

Amsterdam Road Future Construction Plans- River Rock Area (Belgrade)

2010-03-15T21:32:00Z

MDT has a resurfacing project on Amsterdam Road that will be constructed this summer. The work will include changing the current two-way left-turn lane to a left-turn lane dedicated to traffic turning left from Amsterdam Road onto Jackrabbit Lane. If all works well, this change could reduce the length of the backed-up traffic by as much as 50%.

The second project, which we hope will be constructed in 2011, will install a signal at the intersection of Amsterdam Road and the Interstate 90 eastbound off ramp. The project will also include the construction of a right-turn lane on Jackrabbit for traffic turning west onto Amsterdam Road. The signal will help traffic flow from the off ramp but may not do much for the congestion on Amsterdam Road. The right-turn lane will on Jackrabbit should reduce the evening congestion which occurs jackrabbit and the Interstate 90 westbound off ramp.

We are also planning to construct an onramp from Amsterdam Road that would be located next to the existing eastbound off ramp. MDT needs to get approval from the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA) to be allowed an additional access point onto the Interstate. As you noted, this would do the most to relive the current congestion. However, even assuming we get FHWA approval, this project would not be constructed before 2012 and it is more likely it would not be completed before 2013.